Week 6: Flash self directed

Taking a portrait using the speedlite I had to take the image so my subject was correctly exposed using my aperture settings to control the flash output I put it on an f/stop of 16 my shutter speed was 1/125 and ISO was 100. In this image you can see that my subject is correctly exposed but I made some adjustments I used the exposure slider in the basic panel of camera raw to bring back detail into my subjects face I also used the HSL panel to bring more colour into my subjects clothing using the hue, saturation and luminance sliders. I also used the spot removal tool to take out the leaves in the background as well as the tyre of the car and the shadows I've taken a screenshot to show my adjustments made in camera raw.



In this task I had to use three different f.stops using the canon speedlite I positioned my subject outside on a sunny day here I used my lowest f.stop which was 4.0 my shutter speed was a little slow 1/40 I also hand held it I couldn't quite get the line to stay in the middle so I held the camera very steady in this image you can see that the subject is very over exposed.
f/


Using an f.stop of 5.6 you can see that the image is still very over exposed but will a different f stop there are more detail in this image than the previous one. Here I used a shutter speed of 1/40 and my ISO was 100.


In this image I used an f.stop of 11 you can see how the lower f.stop values make the image look over exposed but when you change it to a higher f.stop value you can see more detail in the image while the background still looks over exposed you can see more detail in my subjects face. I used a shutter speed of 1/40 and my ISO was 100.


Using my highest f.stop value of 22 you can now see that my subject is more exposed then the previous images also my background isn't over exposed and there is more detail in this image. You can see how the aperture settings controls the output on the speedlite with the lower f.stops giving a more over exposed image while the higher apertures give you correctly exposed images. I also used a shutter speed of 1/40 and my ISO was 100. When I do my in class task sometimes I don't quite understand it but when I go back and do self directed I can see the difference in my work and it is more understanding to me when I look through my images.


Bounce flash

Week 3: Vantage point fore, mid, background

high angle image using a narrow depth of field
f/4.5
shutter speed: 1/100
ISO: 3200


This is another image of a high angle using a narrow depth of field
f/4.0
shutter speed: 1/80
ISO: 6400


f/5.0
shutter speed: 1/60
ISO: 100






these images were taken from a low angle with a wide depth of field.


f/22.0
shutter speed: 1/250
ISO: 400



f/22.0
shutter speed: 1/250
ISO: 400


f/3.5
shutter speed: 1/1600
ISO: 100



f/3.5
shutter speed: 1/1250
ISO: 100
In this task we had to compose an image so there was something in the foreground, mid ground and the background.

f/16.0

shutter speed: 1/100

ISO: 6400

f/4.5

1/160

ISO: 800

f/16.0

1/125

iso: 6400

f/4.5

shutter speed: 1/100

iso: 400

in this image you can see how I used a narrow depth of field making the bar blurry. 

In these images I had to take pictures of architectural using a high and narrow depth of field I couldn't get streetscape images so I just took picture from a high vantage point at the mit creative arts building. 

Week 8: Butterfly and rim research

Butterfly lighting is lighting that is positioned above the subject giving a butterfly effect under the subjects nose and also there chin and on the subjects neck. 



In this image you can see that the lights are above the subject allowing for a butterfly affect under the subjects nose.


Another example of butterfly lighting with the subjects cheek bones giving a butterfly affect aswel as the shadow under her chin

Rim lighting is lighting that typically comes from behind or beside your subject with the edges of the subject lit up. 


Here you can see that the subjects in this image have been lit by rim lighting only the edge of there bodies have been lit.


This is a diagram of a setup for rim lighting


Here you can see only the the edges of the subject has been lit up.

Week 7: high and lowkey lighting research

High key lighting is a type of lighting style used in film, television, and photography which aims to reduce the lighting ratio that is present in the scene. Lighting ratio in photography refers to the comparison of the key light and the fill light. The higher the lighting ratio the higher the contrast of the image the lower the ratio the lower the contrast of the image.

This is an example of highkey lighting because the subject is little the lights look like they have been placed above the subject with shadows on his shoulders and also under his nose and on his chin. 

This is another example of highkey lighting here you can see the there is more light on the left side of the subject while there is shadow on her neck.

This is a basic diagram of a set up for highkey lighting you have your key light and your fill light with your subject facing towards the camera.

Low-key lighting is also a style of lighting for film, television and photography the lighting ratio is low making the images low contrast so they are darker then highkey lighting images. Traditional photographic lighting uses a key light, fill light and back light for illumination. When shooting low-key lighting images they often use only one key light controlled with a fill light or reflector. 

This is an image of low-key lighting here you can see parts of the subjects face are darkened while other parts of her face and lit by the light. 

This is another example of low-key lighting see you can see that the background is completely black while the subjects face has been lit up by the light. 

This is a basic set up for low-key lighting you have a dark background with the key light next to your subject and a reflector on the other side with the subject positioned in the centre of the frame looking directly at the camera.

Cindy Sherman is an American photographer and film director best known for her conceptual portraits (conceptual is photography that illustrates an idea). Cindy Sherman works in series she is known for photographing herself in a variety of different costumes. 

In this image you can see that highkey lighting was used with more lighting ratio the higher the contrast the image is. You can see how the light has lit up the subjects hair and also made her face correctly exposed. You can see that there are two lights that have been used which would be the key light and the fill light.






Yvonne Todd is a New Zealand contemporary photographer known for her manipulation of conventional photographic techniques and genres. Yvonne Todd was born in 1973 she completed a bachelors of fine arts at Elam School of fine arts in 2001. 


In this image you can see that lowkey lighting was used because the lighting ratio is low making the contrast of the image low and look dark. Here you can see that the edges on the right side of the images are dark, there are also shadows on the right side of the white object. There is also light falling from the top of her head.




Fiona Pardington is a New Zealand contemporary photographer she was born in Devonport, Auckland. Pardington is of Maori (Ngai-Tahu, Kati Mamoe, and Ngati-Kahungunu descent) and Scottish (Clan Cameron of Erracht) descent. Fiona Pardington lives and works in Auckland and has had jobs as a lecturer, tutor, assessor, and moderator on many photography design and fine arts programmes. She has had a prolific exhibition programme both domestically and internationally.


This is an example of Fiona Pardingtons still life lowkey lighting photography here you can see that the image is very dark with means low lighting ratio has been used I like how the lighting lights up the objects in this image for some reason the egg really stands out.


This is an example of highkey lighting here you can see that the lights have softened the shadows the light is also coming from above as you can see the light on the objects head also the shadow on the neck.

Shigeyuki Kihara is a contemporary artist she was the first new zealander to hold a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Mesuem of art work in New York. Kiharas self portrait images included nudes doing poses that that portrayed colonial images of polynesian woman as sexual objects. Kihara is Samoan and her father was Japanese.


This is an example of high key lighting with the lighting ratio high allowing for a higher contrast image


This is an example of lowkey lighting where the lighting ratio is low allowing for a darker image. 

Week 5: PCL imaging and PCL trip

PCL imaging is a private owned company specialising in professional photographic digital imaging and custom framing. PCL imagine produce high quality work for Advertising, Art, Commercial and Professional photographic industries they are centrally located at 30 Karaka St, Eden Terrace in Auckland City, New Zealand and have been running since September 1973. PCL imagings sole purpose is satisfying people through professional attitudes and distinction in products and services.

Our trip to PCL was eye opening we were introduced to Sheridan who showed us around the building we got to meet a few of the workers they explained to us what there role at PCL was also reminding us to be very careful of the art work that was displayed everywhere in the rooms making sure not to touch or breath of the art work as it could ruin it. One of the workers there explained to us how how apple iPhone and samsungs should be thrown in the rubbish because it makes society think that anyone can be a photographer. I enjoyed the trip to PCL imaging the quality of there work is amazing you can see every detail in the image and they look perfect I would definitely get my work printed there in the future.

Week 5: colour and Focal length

Focal Length

In this task I had to take three different images using three different focal lengths moving everytime making sure my subject remained the same size for this image I used a focal length of 18.0mm. I also made some adjustments using camera raw I used the spot removal tool to take away dirt from the carpet and remove marks on the blue door I also took away the sign that was on the door. I used the exposure slider to bring more light into this image I took a before and after photo to show what adjustments I made to this image.
f/4.0
shutter speed: 1/160
ISO: 3200


In this image I used a focal length of 35.0mm taking a picture of the same object moving everytime I change focal lengths so my subject stays the same size I took this image and noticed that as I changed focal lengths but moved the background of my image started to look a lot closer with my subject staying the same size. In this image I also made adjustments using the spot removal tool in camera raw to take away the dirt from the carpet I also increased the exposure to give me more detail in my image.
f/ 4.5
shutter speed: 1/160
ISO: 3200


In this image I used a focal length of 55.0mm here you can see the object is still the same size but the background has changed the background appears to be more close up then the object in this image using the different focal lengths and moving each time with help you to achieve this. I can also notice how the background changes for each of the images the background just gets closer and closer.
f/5.6
shutter speed:1/100
ISO: 3200



In the next task we had to use three different focal lengths this time changing the lengths but remaining in the same place here I used a focal length of 18.0mm you can see that my lens is zoomed out as much as it can go.
f/4.0
shutter speed: 1/200
ISO: 3200


In this next image I used a focal length of 35.0mm here you can see that the image is much more zoomed in making the object in this image appear more closer then the previous image. When zooming in and remaining in the same place you can see how everything in the image is zoomed in where as when I changed focal lengths but moved so that the object in my image stayed the same you could see how the background appeared more closer.
f/4.5
shutter speed: 1/125
ISO: 3200


In this image I have used the highest focal length on my camera which is 55.0mm here you can see that it has been zoomed all the way in making the object the only thing in the image. I noticed the difference when you change focal lengths and remain in the same place everything in the image is zoomed in whereas when you take an image using different focal lengths but move so that the subject remains the same size the background changes and appears more closer.
f5.6
shutter speed: 1/80
ISO: 3200

Using three different focal lengths and staying in the same place I looked down my street and noticed a truck with a ride on mower. I used a focal length of 50.0mm and took an image here you can see that the truck isn't very noticeable as I'm quite a distance down the road from it.

focal length: 50.0mm

f/5.0

shutter speed: 1/320

ISO: 100

In this next image I used a focal length of 135.0mm here you can see that the truck is fairly noticeable using a higher focal length I was able to zoom in on the object in this image making something that is a far distance away from me appear alot closer you can see how the picture changes with the different focal lengths. 

focal length: 135.0mm

f/6.3

shutter speed: 1/320

ISO: 800

In this last image I used a focal length of 200.0mm in this image you can see that the truck is alot more visible everything you couldn't quite see in the first two images are alot clearer now that they have been zoomed in using higher focal lengths

focal length: 200.0mm

f/6.3

shutter speed: 200

ISO: 800

f/6.3

shutter speed: 1/200

ISO: 100

focal length: 70.0mm

f/6.3

shutter speed: 1/200

ISO: 100

focal length: 100.0mm

f/6.3

shutter speed: 1/200

ISO: 100

focal length: 135.0mm

f/6.3

shutter speed: 1/200

ISO: 100

focal length: 200.0mm

f/6.3

shutter speed: 1/200

ISO: 100

focal length: 300.0mm

Colour exercise


In this task we had to take some images incorporating contrasting colours into our image (warm and cold). Here Ive used a blue nivea bottle of cream this is the cool while the red in the image is the warm cool blending them two together I was able to take an image of contrasting colours
f/4.0
shutter speed: 1/100
ISO: 6400


Using camera raw I made some adjustments I used the spot removal took to take away cream on the bottle I also increased the exposure.


In this image I took a photo of a walkway that was lit by the sky here the contrasting colours are blue being the cool colour and an orange/yellow being the warm colour in this image I loved the shadows that fall onto the buildings structure taking a photo of this incorporated contrasting colours into my image.
f/3.5
shutter speed: 1/800
ISO: 100


I was sitting at my auntys house one day and noticed my cousin had just hung her newborn babys clothes on the line for some reason it stood out to me I liked the different clothes of the pegs also the sky was a beautiful blue that day with no clouds in the sky in this picture you can see alot of contrasting colours. The purple being a cool colour and the yellow being a warm colour with all the pegs in this image it gave colour to my photograph and also incorporated contrasting colours.
f/16.0
shutter speed: 1/125
ISO: 100


In the next task we had to incorporate complementary colours into our images here I took a photo of my nephew in his red pram he was wearing a white t-shirt that had green skeletons on them the complementary colours in this image are the red and green.
f/7.1
shutter speed: 1/60
ISO: 100


I also made some adjustments in camera raw.


In this next image I used a tube of medicine and the bottom ribbon on the box here the complementary colours are yellow and purple I positioned the two objects next to each other to achieve the blending of the two colours.
f/4.0
shutter speed: 1/80
ISO: 200


I also made some adjustments in camera raw


In this image I put my aunties shoe on top of blue cabinet the complementary colours in this image are blue and orange. I opened this image in camera raw to bring out more orange in the shoe as well as more colour in the blue cabinet.


Taking different images during the day we had to observe the light and see what it was doing at different times of the day here  I have taken a photo at 8.17am you can see that there is not much light coming into the room.
f/9.0
shutter speed: 1/80
ISO: 1600


The next image was taken at 10.25am in this image I had taken it at a different angle from the previous image you can see that there is no light coming through in this picture as well.
f/4.5
shutter speed: 200
ISO: 100


This is the last image I have taken observing light during the day here I have taken a photo at 4.06pm there is no lighting coming into the house but you can see how the light has changed from the morning to the afternoon from the direct sunlight shining on the road outside I guess I didn't quite get good results of observing light but I did notice that the changes of time affect the lighting from the sun with the morning having less light and by the afternoon the road has been lit up.
f/5.0
shutter speed: 1/60
ISO: 100